The New York Times, May 19, 2013
Among the towering hotels along Collins Avenue in Miami Beach, it’s been hard to find a restaurant that’s neither a New York import nor an outpost of an international chef’s brand. And until recently, anyone looking for a spot that actually celebrates Florida cuisine would be out of luck.
Enter Florida Cookery, opened in November in the James Royal Palm hotel. Kris Wessel, its chef, has developed dishes inspired by the many influences in the state’s culinary mix — the Caribbean, South America and the American South — and uses local products like blood oranges and wild boar.
But don’t call it fusion. The menu’s eclecticism is homegrown, said Mr. Wessel, a 42-year-old Florida native. Reading his grandmother’s 1940s community cookbook, which gave the restaurant its name, he came upon recipes from Cubans and Brazilians alongside Georgians and Louisianians.
“Back then they were all trying to figure out what to do with mangoes, sapodillas, canistel,” he said. “I looked at doing a Florida statement that way.” >>> continue reading at nytimes.com >>>